Family visits in Kentucky and Indiana

After a long drive from Mississippi to Kentucky, we arrived at Uncle Bob’s and Aunt Patsy’s right around dinner time. They have a beautiful property in south central Kentucky with abundant garden space, rolling hills, and a pond.

Working on the property!

We sure didn’t go hungry – Uncle Bob loves to cook on his outdoor griddle setup and Aunt Patsy is a marvelous cook and baker!! Some of our projects during the week included sourdough bread and sourdough chocolate chip cookies. Uncle Bob is very involved with the local Cooperative Extension and he and Tim worked on preparing a space for native grasses to be planted by the Extension team.

One of the highlights of our visit was a day spent paddling down the Cumberland River! Uncle Bob was able to borrow a couple kayaks from a friend, and he set us up for a day trip paddle from Helm’s Landing to Winfrey’s Ferry, about 12 river miles. Aunt Patsy sent us off with a cooler packed with lunch, snacks, and drinks. Out to the river we went!

Kayaking on the Cumberland River, Kentucky

The weather was awesome. We soaked up the scenery and enjoyed many birdsongs as we drifted downriver. About halfway through, we pulled out at the Creelsboro Natural Arch or Rockhouse, as it’s known locally. What a cool place – a 300 million year old limestone arch sits just off the river bank. You can’t help but stare up in awe at the colossal structure.

Creelsboro Natural Arch along the Cumberland River in Kentucky
Looking underneath the arch
Perfect spot to stop for lunch

After our paddle, we hauled out at Winfrey’s Ferry and made our way back to the house. Uncle Bob took us to check out Short Creek, a neat alcove with unique rock formations and caves. The water comes out from one cave and goes right back in to another, hence Short Creek!

Short Creek, Kentucky

We made one more stop to visit Uncle Bob’s friend and fellow tractor aficionado. He has a big property with lots of goats! We were introduced to his daughter, who was eager to teach us the names of all of the goats. She also knew their specific breeds, and had every relationship within the herd dialed in. I was impressed! They also have 3 Great Pyrenees dogs who roam the property and are sure to keep everyone in line.

Sunset was upon us when we returned home. After a delicious meal together, we relaxed for another couple of hours before heading to bed. It was another full day of great adventures and we were so thankful to have this opportunity to spend time with Uncle Bob and Aunt Patsy as we don’t get to see them very often!

The next morning we decided to check out the mountain biking trails at Pulaski County Park. Some spots were tricky as the fallen leaves obscured the tree roots and made it slow going at times. We came across an old suspension bridge and stopped to get a closer look.

Porter Creek suspension bridge, KY

It was another day of beautiful weather – we really lucked out. It was also our last full day in Kentucky! That night, we enjoyed a great meal with Uncle Bob and Aunt Patsy and after packing up the next morning, we said our goodbyes and got back on the road.

We had a short drive planned to Bloomington, Indiana to visit my sister Joy. Since we weren’t in a rush to get there, we made several stops along the route to check out some unique places. Our first stop was Abe Lincoln’s birthplace in Hodgenville, KY. It’s a National Historic Park and has beautiful grounds.

Memorial Building at Lincoln’s birthplace
Symbolic Cabin within the Memorial Building
The Sinking Spring

Our next stop was a car museum in Elizabethtown, KY: Swope’s Cars of Yesteryear. It was neat to see pre-war era cars and Tim especially enjoyed the collection!

Before entering Louisville, we jogged east a little bit and stopped at the Bernheim Arboretum and Research Forest. What a beautiful spot! The trails were fantastic and we especially loved the 3 giant trolls created by artist Thomas Dambo. If you’re interested in his work, check out the Troll Map and discover where else in the world you can find these giants!

“Little Nis” sculpture by artist Thomas Dambo
Pregnant “Momma Loumari” reclines under a tree
“Little Elina” in the field

After a quick stop in Louisville for gas, we were only a few hours away from Bloomington and arrived just in time for dinner. It was great to see Joy and catch up!

Over the next week, we spent time helping Joy with some projects, exploring Bloomington, cooking and baking, practicing yoga, and hanging out together.

Mountain biking in Brown County State Park
Climbing the fire tower in Brown County State Park
Walking around the lake at Brown County State Park

On Saturday, Joy gave us a tour of campus and showed us the laboratory where she’s working on her research and focused on studying microbial activity within permafrost.

Joy gave us a tour of campus and the laboratory where she works
Her research focuses on microbial activity within permafrost

Outside the lab, this thermograph caught my eye! It wasn’t recording, but is meant to monitor the temperature inside the laboratory. Very cool!

An old thermograph on the wall outside the lab

Later in the day, we took a drive to nearby Nashville, Indiana. It’s a cute little town full of shops and restaurants. We had lunch and walked around. It was absolutely packed with people! We later learned it was the weekend of the annual Chocolate Walk, a popular fundraiser event for the Brown County Humane Society that drew all the crowds.

Another highlight of our time in Bloomington was exploring the great trails! Our favorite was the Karst Farm Greenway. After walking part of the trail, we decided to come back with our bikes and bike the whole stretch.

Great day for a bike ride on the Karst Farm Greenway
Cows along the trail on the Karst Farm Greenway

With another kitchen available to use, I spent a lot of time cooking and baking! Not only do I enjoy it, but it was also a gift for Joy to have a stocked freezer for quick meals during busy weeks at school. Some items on the menu included cauliflower & pumpkin pasta, Moroccan meatballs, chicken soup, lentil soup, 2 loaves of bread, banana nut muffins, and Bolognese sauce. In an effort not to waste the pumpkin puree, I ended up making a couple batches of pumpkin cookies too. The freezer was full – success!

After a week in Bloomington, it was time to pack up, say our goodbyes, and get back on the road. We had a great visit with Joy and really loved the area. Soon we would head back into central time for a visit with Steve and Joellen in Illinois!

Laissez le bon temps rouler: Halloween in New Orleans

After 5 nights in Oklahoma, it was time to move on to our next stop: a visit with cousin Meg and Monte in Mississippi. We said our goodbyes and left way too early in the morning on Friday the 27th. It was a long day on the road, but we felt well-rested and ready for it!

We pulled into Gulfport around 5:30PM. Meg and Monte helped us unload and led us out to the back patio where we hung out, caught up on life, and snacked on an array of appetizers. We learned that Monte is a master tortilla maker. He had whipped up the best corn tortillas and we enjoyed tacos next to the bonfire!

Relaxing by the bonfire in Gulfport, MS

The next morning, Meg and Monte took us to the property they recently bought and showed us the house they’re working on renovating. It’s in a great location with over 2 acres. It seems like such a daunting and overwhelming task, but they have been hard at work every weekend chiseling away bit by bit to fix it up and bring it back to life. I can’t wait to see the finished product!

In the afternoon, we took a 1 hour drive west to New Orleans. When planning this trip, Meg came up with the idea of spending a night in New Orleans the weekend before Halloween! Since it was just a week after her birthday, we decided it would be a great birthday celebration too. We talked through a few costume ideas, but eventually settled on a modern version of The Wizard of Oz cast. It was perfect because even her dog, Cooper, landed himself the role of Toto for the evening!

A modern twist on The Wizard of Oz cast with Cooper filling the role as Toto!
Lots of costumes on Bourbon Street in New Orleans the weekend before Halloween

We had so much fun and enjoyed the energy of the French Quarter. Lots of people stopped us for a picture and asked to pet Cooper! The next morning we stopped at Café Beignet and walked around a while longer before heading back to Mississippi. It was a beautiful sunny day and we opted for the backroads and enjoyed the drive.

Driving along the Gulf Coast just outside of Gulfport

We spent a few more days and had a great time visiting and exploring the Gulfport area. Monte took us to some mountain biking trails in the DeSoto National Forest. It was an awesome trail system with lots of varying terrain and not at all what we expected! One night we had the best BBQ at a well-known local place called The Shed – a unique conglomeration of structures pieced together full of lots of antiques and collectibles. And since it was the Halloween season, we started a scary movie marathon and kept up with our routine each night.

Fishbone Alley in Gulfport, MS
Remnant mural from Cruisin’ the Coast, a rolling car show event
Monte and Tim on the dock
An osprey perched atop a sailboat in Gulfport, MS

Almost a week after we had arrived, we packed up our car and got up early on Thursday morning to reach our next destination: Uncle Bob and Aunt Patsy’s house in Kentucky. It was hard to believe, but we were nearing the end of our fifth week on the road! In some ways the days of driving were long, but in other ways, the weeks have flown by. We said our goodbyes and hit the road bright and early as we were going to lose an hour crossing over from central into eastern time.

Questa, NM to Norman, OK

A beautiful sunrise greeted us as we packed up camp and headed into Grand Junction to the Honda dealership. Since it was Saturday morning and we figured it would be busy, we arrived early to join the service line.

Sunrise glow on the horizon near Grand Junction, CO

While the car got tuned up, we hopped on our bikes and explored the nearby neighborhood. We didn’t have to go far before we stumbled upon a local coffee shop! For the next hour, we relaxed and enjoyed the cozy atmosphere with lattes. Lots of regular customers, sometimes with a dog or two in tow, filtered in to pick up their favorite drink. It was a beautiful, cloudless morning with a crisp breeze that put just enough chill in the air to remind you it was surely fall.

We made our way back to the dealership, loaded up the bikes, and set out again! By late afternoon, we crossed the border into New Mexico. There were only a few campgrounds to choose from near Questa, as a lot of options at higher elevations had already closed for the season. We pulled into Goat Hill campground just before dusk and quickly got a fire going. Only a few other sites were occupied: a couple of RVs, and one other brave soul in a tent. The temperature dropped through the evening, leading us to pile on our layers and keep the fire going. After enjoying a hot meal and soaking up the warmth from the fire a while longer, we turned in early.

The next morning we woke up early to start our full day on the road. I didn’t have a thermometer to check the temperature at the time, but I’d guess it was 28F! Didn’t bother me much until I emerged from my sleeping bag, then I was sure to keep moving to stay warm and get things packed. Tim had already emerged from the tent and started working on coffee. I was so thankful! This would mark our last time camping as the rest of our journey would be spent visiting and staying with friends and family. While I was excited to continue heading east for all of our visits, it was definitely bittersweet to close out our camping days!

We hit the road by 6:30AM and passed through Red River, NM just as the sun was coming up. The scenery changed dramatically as we crossed the border into the Texas panhandle later in the day. Fields upon fields, and miles of flat land unfolded before us for what seemed like forever as we kept on driving east. Occasionally the speed limit would decrease and we’d slow down as we passed through a small town. When we crossed the border into Oklahoma, I couldn’t help but suggest stopping at Braum’s for a milkshake! I think the last time I’d had Braum’s was over a decade ago. It was just as good as I’d remembered!

Had to make a milkshake stop at Braum’s in OK!

By 5:30PM, we reached our destination – Norman, OK! For the next week, we enjoyed lots of down time off the road and caught up with friends (and their dogs!) I especially enjoyed having a spacious and well-stocked kitchen for cooking and baking (thank you, Rach!! ❤ ) It was such a relaxing week. We enjoyed slow mornings, neighborhood walks, and dinners with friends. Can’t ask for more than that!

Moab, UT to Grand Junction, CO

Our drive to Moab was largely uneventful and full of beautiful scenery. We passed through a sliver of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Capitol Reef National Park while following a convoy of Model A cars.

Beautiful day for a drive
Views on the road toward Capitol Reef National Park

We made several stops at scenic viewpoints along the way. It was amazing how the terrain changed drastically as we approached the entrance to Capitol Reef National Park.

Vibrant fall colors while driving through Utah toward Capitol Reef National Park
Enjoying the view from a lookout point on the road in Utah toward Capitol Reef National Park
Dramatic scenery change as we approached Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
More vibrant fall colors in Capitol Reef National Park

Around midday, we found a spot near the Petroglyphs to stop and prepare some lunch. One of the best investments we made for this trip was a battery powered ice-less cooler from Anker. It charges up when plugged into the 12V outlet in the car! It has made a world of difference and allowed us to keep food and drinks refrigerated without the hassle of stopping for ice every few days. We’ve been carrying along everything from lunch meats and cheeses, to carrot sticks and sugar snap peas, to hummus, yogurts, and drinks. Even Tim’s mom’s delicious canned relish and pickles came along! We felt lucky to enjoy a taste of home while making our extended journey across the country.

Petroglyphs in Capitol Reef National Park

We continued on the road for another few hours toward Moab. We thought we had arrived early enough in the afternoon on a Thursday to snag a campsite but to our astonishment, every single site at every single campground we drove through was occupied! We were out of luck. The host at the Kings Bottom campground recommended checking out The Ledge camping area. He said it was far out enough that there are usually sites left to claim.

Far out it was! We found ourselves driving out an — uncomfortably narrow at times — winding dirt road through a massive canyon. We weren’t even halfway to the campground and had already spent an hour navigating the steep winding roads. With sunset looming, and plans to wake up early to get into Arches National Park the next morning, it seemed like Plan A wasn’t working, so we opted to return to town to sort out a Plan B.

Beautiful canyon views on the way to check out The Ledge campground

Over the course of the last year, one way that we began preparing for this trip was by accumulating credit card travel points. This was a perfect situation to call upon those points and see what hotel stays were available in Moab. Once we returned to service range, we pulled over to look online and see what our options were. With some incredible luck, we managed to book the very last room available at the Quality Suites Inn and the staff were sure to confirm this when we arrived to check in. “It’s your lucky day, you just booked our very last room available!” the friendly face behind the counter exclaimed. He also stated that it has been the busiest week this late in the season that he can recall, and attributed it to the incredible weather we’ve all been enjoying. That definitely appeared to be the case as Moab was packed with visitors!

Feeling relieved with a new plan, we unpacked our bags at the hotel and had a meal at the Moab Brewery conveniently located next door. Afterwards we made our way back to the hotel, enjoyed hot showers, and went to bed early in anticipation of the 5AM alarm we had set for the next morning.

After spending the majority of our nights on the road camping and sleeping in a tent, Tim and I both eagerly agree that the nights we’ve spent sleeping indoors have been some of the worst nights of sleep ever! Maybe it’s no surprise that tenting and sleeping outdoors in fresh air for an extended period of time has benefits. Additionally, without prolonged exposure to artificial light, we also noticed that our sleep time naturally aligned with the daily rhythm of sunset and sunrise. After working as a rotating shift-worker for several years, I must say that being on the road for an extended period of time camping like this and living by sunrises and sunsets is a glorious and much-welcomed reset to the varied and inconsistent sleep schedule I held before!

Friday morning, we awoke early and packed up. It was still dark out when we made it through the entrance to Arches National Park. Our goal was to arrive before 7AM so as to avoid the timed ticketing. Light was just breaking on the horizon as we drove into the park and navigated to the trailhead for Landscape Arch.

Silhouette of Balanced Rock as we drove into Arches National Park before sunrise

It was a breeze to get in early and easily find parking! We hustled down the trail to get to the base of the arch in time for sunrise. What a treasure. As the sun gradually rose, we enjoyed the amazing view of light breaking on the enormous nearly 300 ft span of Landscape Arch. Not many other people had arrived to the park yet and it was so special to enjoy the stillness of the early morning.

Hustling down the trail to Landscape Arch in time for sunrise
First rays of sunlight on Landscape Arch
Sunrise views at Landscape Arch

We continued on and stopped to explore Navajo Arch and Partition Arch, both equally as impressive.

Hiking toward Navajo Arch in Arches National Park, UT
Close up of patterns in the sandstone at Arches National Park
Navajo Arch
Approaching Partition Arch

Once back at the car, we made our way to the Delicate Arch trailhead. It was now mid-morning and the heat of the day was upon us. We took our time and stopped for lots of water breaks. After living in Alaska for over 7 years, we weren’t exactly accustomed to the intensity of the desert heat!

Views on the trail to Delicate Arch
Taking our time and staying hydrated in the desert heat
Neat patterns in the sandstone on the way to Delicate Arch
First views of Delicate Arch
More beautiful sandstone formations beyond Delicate Arch

It was a great hike and offered rewarding views the whole way. Lots of people had arrived and on our way out, the trail had grown more crowded. We were glad to get an early start; not just to beat the crowds, but also to avoid the worst of the heat.

Our last stop was Double Arch. After gazing in awe of the amazing views and getting our fill of pictures, we wrapped up our time in the park and stopped at the visitor center on the way out. Feeling recharged with cold water and a lunch break, we briefly wandered down Main Street in Moab before getting back on the road.

Impressive views of Double Arch

By late afternoon, we reached the Colorado National Monument and ventured up the winding Rimrock Road to Saddlehorn Campground, a little over 5,000 ft elevation. Sprawling views of Grand Junction came into view below. The beautiful weather was going to continue through the weekend and we were lucky to get there on the early side. Several more campers arrived after us and by dusk, the campground was full.

Amazing views from Saddlehorn Campground, CO
Home sweet home at Saddlehorn Campground near Grand Junction, CO

We’re quickly closing in on 3 weeks on the road and after nearly 6,000 miles driven, it’s time to get the car serviced. Tomorrow we’re planning to stop in Grand Junction for an oil change. Also it’s been hard to ignore the fact that our camping days are numbered, as we will soon be making lots of visits with friends and family for the rest of the journey east!

Southwestern U.S. National Parks

Woke up to a beautiful morning at the Oak Grove Campground just outside of St. George in Utah. We had breakfast, packed up the car, and headed to Zion National Park. The weather was perfect and the scenery couldn’t be beat as we switch-backed up narrow winding roads to tunnels carved through the mountain. We didn’t beat the crowds though, as lots of people poured into the park right alongside us!

Incredible views driving through Zion National Park
Stopping to admire the amazing rock formations in Zion National Park

While planning this itinerary we opted to spend more time in Bryce Canyon National Park over Zion, so we only got a quick glimpse during our morning drive. What we did see driving through was amazingly beautiful, and I look forward to spending more time in Zion someday! Another thing we considered knowing that we would be passing through several National Parks on this drive was to purchase an annual America the Beautiful park pass. It’s seriously the best, and has paid for itself in just a couple of park visits! Highly recommended if you’re ever planning to visit multiple National Parks.

Zion National Park, Utah

By late morning, we exited Zion on the east side and continued toward Bryce Canyon National Park, about another 2 hours. We reached the entrance to Bryce and arrived at the North Campground by 1:30PM. It was great to get settled early and have the rest of the day to explore! We set up camp, had a late lunch, and unloaded our bikes to explore the park. The best part about Bryce Canyon National Park is how accessible it is. I loved the paved walking and biking trails! It was easy to get around to many of the popular viewpoints in the north end of the park on our bikes.

Camping in Bryce Canyon National Park, UT at the North Campground
Endless Hoodoo views!

The landscape here is incredible. Bryce has quickly risen to one of my favorite National Parks! We really enjoyed observing the dramatic differences and ever changing colors in the landscape during sunset and sunrise.

Biking in Bryce Canyon National Park at sunset

The temperature started to drop rapidly as we pedaled our way back to camp. We got a fire going to warm up and shared a meal. Soon the stars became visible and the arc of the Milky Way glowed directly overhead. It was a beautiful clear and calm night.

The next morning we got up early to catch the sunrise views. It was cold, somewhere in the mid to upper 30s. We quickly layered up and brewed some coffee! As we departed camp and walked toward the overlook, we joined several others who were also making the early pre-dawn pilgrimage to the sunrise viewpoint. Several other campers already claimed a spot on the ridge with their thermoses full of hot drinks and gazes fixed on the horizon waiting for the spectacular moment. Though no one really said much at this hour, the excitement was tangible.

We walked up the steadily inclined trail to the lookout point and decided to go a bit farther to avoid the larger crowd that had gathered. The sky grew brighter and brighter and the Hoodoos down below were slowly emerging out of darkness.

Sunrise on the Hoodoos in Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah
“Sunrise Walkers” on the ridgeline in Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah
A “window”, the precursor to a freestanding Hoodoo. We learned a lot about their formation from NPS!
Enjoying a cup of coffee with a side of sunrise Hoodoos!

The sunrise views were amazing! We lingered a while longer soaking up the scenery, taking lots of pictures, and enjoying the warmth of the sun. Eventually we headed back to camp to make more coffee and have some breakfast, and by 9:30AM we were packed up and on the road again. I would love to go back someday and stay longer to explore the various hiking trails among the Hoodoos. In the meantime our journey continues, and next up is Moab and Arches National Park!

Joshua Tree National Park, CA to St. George, UT

On our way out of San Diego early Monday morning, we made a stop at the Palomar Observatory. It was a long, winding road up to the top of Palomar Mountain and the views were a treat. Housed at the Palomar Observatory is the Hale telescope, which at one point was the largest telescope in the world! We enjoyed our visit and had the whole place to ourselves on an early, quiet Monday morning.

Palomar Observatory on top of Palomar Mountain, CA
Hale Telescope at Palomar Observatory
Views from Palomar Mountain

We got back on the road and continued heading northeastward toward Joshua Tree National Park, passing through Palm Springs. A seemingly endless desert landscape consumed our view as we reached Twentynine Palms and the north entrance to Joshua Tree by mid-afternoon.

Endless desert views and lots of wind turbines
Joshua Tree National Park

The landscape of Joshua Tree National Park is fascinating. The whole park is really a huge transition zone from where the Mojave desert collides with the Colorado desert. We stopped and explored the Cholla cactus garden and many other viewpoints on our way to Indian Cove Campground. As dusk set in, we set up camp and made chicken quesadillas for dinner. After a really hot day (temperatures reached 100F at one point!) it was quickly cooling off and the first stars were visible. Our cozy tent and the cool desert air made it easy to fall asleep.

Cholla Cactus Garden
Setting sun in Joshua Tree National Park

The next morning, we made coffee and went for a walk around the campground. We noticed several vans of military personnel arriving at various places in the campground to begin their morning training regimen, including rock climbing and bouldering across the challenging terrain. It was already getting hot when we made our way back to pack up camp.

Good morning from camp in Joshua Tree National Park
Desert hare in Joshua Tree National Park

We exited the park and returned to the road. Today’s drive took us north through Las Vegas, a stark contrast to much of the vast desert landscapes we had grown accustomed to. We clipped the far northwestern corner of Arizona and were in awe of the incredible canyon views as the highway wove back and forth and up and down through several canyon passes.

Sign created by Jack Pierson in Twentynine Palms, CA
Driving down Las Vegas strip
Canyon views in Arizona
Driving through more canyons from Arizona into Utah

Our destination for the night was Oak Grove Campground just outside of St. George, UT. As we climbed higher in elevation, we could see the expanse of St. George unfolding below. This time of year has really been a treat with amazing foliage views, and Utah was no exception!

Vibrant yellow leaves stood out against the clear blue sky as we approached the campground. We found a spot and started a fire to take off the light chill in the air. Tomorrow we plan to drive through Zion National Park and make our way to Bryce Canyon National Park where we’ll stay for a few nights. Excited to continue our western U.S. National Park tour!

Yosemite National Park & San Diego

It’s nearing the end of our second week on the road, and we have a routine down now! After waking up to amazing dawn light, we made coffee and breakfast and broke down camp. We stopped to gas up and resupply in Sacramento and enjoyed the California sunshine as we headed toward Yosemite.

As we neared the park, it became obvious that there was a wildfire. Turns out that staff were conducting controlled burns in the park. We didn’t get the classic picturesque views of Yosemite Valley, but rather a unique smoke-tinged view instead!

Smoke-filled views of Yosemite Valley due to controlled burns in the park
Bridal Veil Fall, Yosemite
Smoky views due to a controlled burn in Yosemite National Park
Beautiful winding roads through Yosemite National Park

As we were suspecting, first-come first-served campsites in the park were completely full. We ended up finding a better and more remote site at Lone Sequoia Campground south of the park. We have really been enjoying the free US Forest Service campgrounds! Sometimes they can be remote and hard to get to but there really are some gems for adventurous souls willing to travel off the beaten path. Some campsites we booked in advance, but for the majority of this trip we’ve been finding them as we go with the app iOverlander. It’s a great worldwide resource that lists crowd-sourced campsite information!

Sunset view on the way to USFS Lone Sequoia campground

After winding down a narrow dirt road, we arrived to the campground just after sunset. Several other campers had already set up their sites for the weekend and were enjoying a campfire when we pulled in to join the party.

Coffee time at Lone Sequoia Campground, CA

The next morning, we made breakfast and packed up camp. Today was the day of the annular solar eclipse! As we hustled to get the car packed, we intermittently checked on the status of the eclipse with our solar glasses.

The annular solar eclipse was starting!

By 9:30AM, we left the campground and found an open viewing spot on the side of the road. Since we were in southern CA, we didn’t have the “ring of fire” effect, as it was only a partial view for our location, but still very cool to witness the sun become a sliver as the moon passed through!

Crescent shadows during the annular solar eclipse on October 14

As we were enjoying the event, another couple pulled over and parked behind us on the side of the road. They looked curious, and as I walked toward them, they rolled down the window and asked what we were looking at. I explained that there was an annular solar eclipse happening and offered my glasses so they could take a look. “Wow!!! That’s amazing!!” the driver exclaimed. “Look at that!” he said as he passed the glasses over to his passenger. She was equally as impressed. Even though our interaction only lasted a few minutes, I really enjoyed that moment on the side of the road. It’s so fun sharing in the excitement with others as they observe cool science things!

We got back on the road and continued making our way to San Diego. By the time we arrived at Ethan and Hannah’s place, the sun was quickly sinking toward the horizon. We felt so lucky to end our second week on the road spending time with friends in a new place! Ethan and Hannah were so gracious and warmly welcomed us into their home and showed us around all their favorite spots in town.

Sunset as we arrived in San Diego
Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve
Enjoying the ocean views!
Delicious Baja-style tacos and ceviche at Oscar’s

We had such a great time exploring a new city and sampling some of the best Baja-style tacos, ceviche, and beer from the many San Diego breweries! It was great to have a couple days to rest. Cheers to great friends and new adventures!

Redwood National & State Park

It was so nice to have a break from the rain! We woke up to a beautiful morning at Boice Cope campground and had breakfast. After getting packed up, we set out for another day on the road.

We took our time meandering to Redwood, mostly because the views along the remaining Oregon coast and across the state line into California were amazing! The shallow marine layer made it even more scenic. We stopped so many times to take in the scenery.

Battle Rock Wayside Park in Port Orford, OR
Oregon coast views
Oregon coast views

I have heard many people rave about the size of these Redwood trees and I was so excited to finally have the chance to see one for myself. Big thanks to Michelle who pointed us in the right direction and suggested we take Howland Hill Road- it’s not to be missed!

Surrounded by towering Redwoods
Feeling small next to a giant!

We continued driving south along the coast and stopped for a walk on the beach in Trinidad, CA – another great spot with beautiful views (thanks again Michelle!)

After a few more hours, we arrived at the Middle Creek Campground in Upper Lake, CA within the Mendocino National Forest. The campground is known for its extensive Off-Highway Vehicle (OHV) trails and it was surprisingly busy for a Thursday night with several groups riding around on dirt bikes, side by sides, and other ATVs.

Middle Creek is dried up!

The sun set quickly and soon lots of stars appeared. I’ve been trying diligently to take photos of the night sky with the iPhone’s “night mode”. Sometimes they come out ok!

Night sky aglow overhead
Home sweet camp

After a long day on the road, it was easy to fall asleep. Tomorrow we’ll have a shorter day of driving with stops in Sacramento and Yosemite. It’s looking like we’re still on track to get to San Diego to visit our friends Ethan and Hannah for the weekend!

Olympic National Park

As we packed up and hit the road, one of our last stops before crossing the border into Washington was Canadian Tire (purely out of curiosity!). What a place…three floors of anything you could possibly need. It’s like a Lowe’s, Walmart, Petco, and Sportsmans Warehouse combined. Tim was excited to look around.

We reached the border crossing around 11am and waited in line. Light rain had started to fall as we observed the Peace Arch monument while gradually inching closer to the border checkpoint.

Peace Arch monument at the British Columbia/Washington border

After a week in Canada, we were back in the states. Hard to believe how quickly the week flew by! Our next destination is Olympic National Park on the Olympic Peninsula. We drove to Coupeville, WA to catch the Coupeville-Port Townsend ferry. We didn’t make a reservation in advance and hoped to catch the next available ferry ride. Luckily we didn’t have to wait! We were the third to last car to make it on the short ride to Port Townsend. In fact, the ride is so short (25 min) that most people don’t even leave their vehicles. Wanting to explore and take in the sights, we parked on the ferry and ventured to the upper deck to look around. I noticed that these ferry folks sure don’t mess around – they had the boat loaded and pulling away from the dock mere seconds after the last vehicle made it on. The efficiency and timeliness of directing and loading vehicles onboard was impressive! I guess with routine short trips like this one, the rhythm becomes like clockwork.

We were lucky to make it on the earlier ferry ride to Port Townsend, WA with no reservation
Choppy waters on the way to Port Townsend, WA
Enjoying the views from the ferry

The water was a little choppy and there were some unnerving sounds as larger waves crashed into the boat. Soon we were docked at Port Townsend and continued about an hour westward to reach Port Angeles. We found a fantastic campsite at Heart O’ The Hills campground within the northern boundary of Olympic National Park. The beautiful lush forests, moss-covered ground, and misty air brought back memories of southeast Alaska. While we were used to sharing wild spaces with large animals like bears and moose, Olympic National Park was home to another large animal we hadn’t encountered before: cougars! The signage posted at the campground reminded us to be aware and keep a clean camp.

Reminder posted at the campground to stay alert for cougars in Olympic National Park

We pitched our tent under the cover of towering old growth trees and Tim worked on building a fire while I got a meal started. For most of this trip, we’ve been largely free of routines which has been a welcomed change, however it’s been easy to establish a sense of routine in the simple tasks like setting up and breaking down camp, starting a fire, or preparing a meal. Especially after a long day of traveling, you find that you start to look forward to the little things! We enjoyed the last light of the day before settling in to our cozy tent and falling asleep to the pitter-patter of light rain.

Campsite at Heart O’ The Hills campground
Towering old growth
Beautiful mossy forests

The next morning, we got an early start and woke up just before sunrise. After packing up, we ventured back on the road and started climbing toward Hurricane Ridge. The rain picked up in intensity as we gained elevation and soon we were in the clouds with limited visibility. Unfortunately we couldn’t see much at the top, but the views during the ascent were beautiful. We learned that earlier this year in May, the visitor center that once stood at the top of Hurricane Ridge had burned down and the cause of the fire is still being investigated. The remains of the building were barely discernible through the thick fog.

Layered mountain views on the drive along Hurricane Ridge
Tunnel on the drive along Hurricane Ridge

We made our way back down, exited the park back toward Port Angeles, and continued driving west. Our next stop was the Hoh Rainforest on the west side of the Peninsula. As we neared the coast, the rain tapered off and the sun began to peek out. What a gift! We arrived at the Hoh Rainforest entrance and continued driving into the park. The massive Western Red Cedar trees, ferns, and moss-covered forests seemed endless. We walked through the Hall of Mosses loop and couldn’t believe the size of the trees. Enormous Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock dwarfed us, some of which grew to over 300 feet tall and over 20 feet in diameter!

Road leading to Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park, WA
Hoh River
Entrance to the Hoh Rainforest
Endless ferns
Towering trees including Sitka spruce, Western Hemlock, and Western Red Cedar, among others
Arch along the Hall of Mosses loop
Feeling small next to these giants

After enjoying lunch in the park, we got back on the road and continued south into Oregon. Our original plan was to camp at the Fort Stevens State Park in Astoria, however after reviewing the updated weather forecast, we opted not to. Heavy rain, wind gusts up to 40 mph, thunderstorms, and even a chance for waterspouts and tornadoes led us to pick plan B. Instead, we drove another 40 minutes south, enjoyed a nice meal out in Cannon Beach, and booked a hotel room in Seaview. Best decision ever! As the weather got worse overnight, we were thankful to be warm, dry, and not battling those tent-pole snapping winds. Mother Nature always wins.

Ominous-looking skies as we approached Oregon
Crossing the Columbia River into Astoria, OR
Eerie clouds looming over the Columbia River

Winding Roads and Big Cities

A beautiful sunrise with orange and red highlights greeted us Saturday morning when we woke up at the Desous campground. We made coffee and breakfast and got packed up. Before departing, we ventured out to explore the surrounding mountain bike trails.

Mountain biking trails at Desous campground

We got back on the road and continued south on route 97 toward Cache Creek. Just before approaching Cache Creek, we veered west onto route 99 to explore the more mountainous route to Vancouver. The road twisted, curved, and wound all around through several mountain passes, and the views were spectacular.

Viewpoint overlooking the community of Lillooet
Beautiful fall colors along the Sea to Sky Highway (BC-99)
Impressive logjam at Duffey Lake
More stunning scenery along the Sea to Sky Highway (BC-99)

We passed through Whistler and Squamish and as we neared Vancouver, the highway hugged the coastline, revealing views of Howe Sound.

Views of Howe Sound appear along BC-99 just north of Vancouver

The sprawling city of Vancouver is quite a contrast to the rural and rugged parts of northern British Columbia. After several nights camping, we treated ourselves to an AirBnB in North Vancouver for a night and explored the city! We walked to Pawan’s Kitchen for a late dinner and enjoyed the fast-paced hustle and bustle of a big city. After a longer day on the road, it was nice to relax and enjoy the amenities of an AirBnB. Tomorrow we cross the border into Washington and visit Olympic National Park!

Nighttime views of Vancouver Harbor